The Layup Process for Skis and Snowboards

The layup is where your base, core, sidewalls, composites, and topsheet come together. For my builds, I use a vacuum-forming process with Entropy compression molding resin (slow hardener) and a heating system. The slow hardener is nice because it gives a long enough working time to apply resin, wet out the fabrics, and align everything before the epoxy starts to set.

I’ve put together a timelapse video of me doing a layup so you can see the whole process in action. or maybe I really do work that fast…:

2. Mixing Epoxy

Mix Entropy compression molding resin with slow hardener according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Mix slowly to minimize bubbles, scraping the sides and bottom of your cup.
Pour 2 or 3 separate cups of A and B so you can activate them one at a time as needed.

Tip: With the slow hardener you’ll usually have 40–50 minutes of working time, but don’t get complacent—work smoothly and keep moving.

3. Wetting Out Fabrics

Fiberglass, carbon, or flax layers need to be completely saturated so they become transparent and bond fully.

Place the first sheet on plastic sheeting or directly in the mold.
Pour epoxy across the fabric and spread it with a squeegee, roller, or gloved hand.
Apply firm pressure to push resin into the weave and scrape away excess.

You should see no white or dry spots, but also no puddles—too much resin just adds weight.

4. Layering Sequence

For skis, the layup usually goes bottom to top like this:

Base with edges attached (apply a light coat of resin to the top surface, add vds over the steel edges).
Carbon Fiber & Veil (place fiberglass veil on either side of the carbon to ensure a good bond)
Fiberglass layer (wet out before laying the core).
Wood core
Top fiberglass layer (plus boot pad for skis).
Topsheet (veneer or clear plastic with graphics underneath).

Every builder tweaks this depending on the performance goals, eg: titanol, flax in the tips for damping, or extra glass under bindings for durability.

5. Alignment and Assembly

Center the core carefully over the base sidecut. Even a few millimeters off will show in the finished product.
Work from the center outwards, smoothing layers and pushing out air bubbles.
Use peel ply between the topsheet and breather to keep excess resin from sticking.

6. Into the Vacuum Press

For vacuum forming:

Lay the full “ski sandwich” into the mold cavity.
Place peel ply, release film, and breather layers over the ski stack.
Seal the vacuum bag and pull vacuum slowly to avoid shifting layers.
Once full vacuum is reached, check alignment again before leaving it to cure.

7. Curing

Keep the ski under full vacuum for the epoxy’s recommended cure time (often 8–12 hours at room temperature).
If you’re adding heat (I use heat blankets), be sure it’s even across the ski and reaches curing temperature.
Once cured, release vacuum and peel back the bagging stack.

You should now have a fully laminated ski or snowboard, ready for trimming, shaping, and finishing!